Schloss Ambras sits on a hill just outside Innsbruck. We stopped there on the way out of town, and it turned out to be pretty interesting. Located on the site […]
We have a rule for traveling: whenever there is a hill, we must go up it. And so, we escaped the tourist hordes once again, and took the Nordkettenbahn (train) […]
So, when I was looking up stuff to do in Innsbruck, I went on Trip Advisor and read reviews that mentioned how “weird” and “creepy” the Tiroler Volkskunstmuseum was. Some […]
The Tiroler Volkskunstmuseum is one of the best collections of folk art I have ever seen, in any country. Yet it was practically empty on the day we visited. Go […]
I knew absolutely nothing about Innsbruck before we arrived, other than it was on the way to Italy and was kind of ski chic. I definitely had no idea it […]
Preferably with käsespaetzle (cheese noodles) and preiselbeeren (wild cranberries). Why is this wildragout (wild boar stew) so freaking good? Because the pig ran around in the Alpine woods for a year or […]
We shipped our car a month ago and I have barely noticed. I can get anywhere I want to on die öffis, a complicated network of under- and above-ground trains, trams, buses and bike paths. It took a while to get the hang of it, but once I did, I never looked back. It is an awesome system, and I am sure going to miss it when I get back to lame public transport in the States.
I won’t repeat my epic rant about Austria being the ashtray of Europe. But today, as two smokers sat down next to me in a bus shelter, I was reminded […]
Every weekday, rain or shine, I go for a brisk walk. Since my apartment-bound life in Vienna is unusually sedentary for me (I’m used to renovating houses and gardening a half-acre or so) this daily exercise is absolutely key to my sanity. One of my favorite routes is along the Donaukanal. I’m going to miss it!
A mid-week escape to the lakeside resort of Neusidl am See in sunny Burgenland.
It’s very strange sometimes being a non-Catholic in a very Catholic country. Of course, we lived in three different officially Catholic Latin American countries, plus the nominally Catholic Czech Republic, so we are not completely unfamiliar with the rituals. But nowhere has the liturgical calendar been taken so seriously as it is here in Austria.
Visiting Beethoven, Brahms, Strauss, and Falco at Vienna’s Central Cemetery.